Shanghai hairy crab (Chinese mitten crab) is an autumn obsession in the city. These small crabs are recognizable by the dense fur on their claws. Female crabs (xie) are prized for their golden, custard-like roe (huang), while males have a rich, creamy white gonad (gao). They're simply steamed and served with a dipping sauce of black vinegar, ginger, and sugar. Cracking them open and extracting every morsel of meat and roe is a ritual that can take an hour per crab.
Hairy crabs from Yangcheng Lake near Shanghai have been prized for over a thousand years. The autumn crabfeast is a Shanghai tradition that dates back to the Tang Dynasty.